There are surely always brands and collections standing out more than others during the Fashion Weeks across the world, either for a particular aesthetic or an unusual characteristic. Right from the beginning of New York Fashion Week, Marc Jacobs definitely conquered one of the spots in the category.
As a matter of fact, Jacobs delivered an AW18 collection full of statement looks inspired by the ‘80s glam but completely different from the decade’s usual references we have been witnessing in other brands’ collections. There were no embellished bejeweled details, yet the volumes filled the runway.
The looks showcased definitely grabbed the audience’s attention and, given the recent critical performances of the brand, one might assume the impactful designs were also part of a new strategy for Marc Jacobs. On the other hand, however, the issues of the brand are limited to the sales department so, perhaps, such an excessive collection might not have been the wisest idea to boost sales and attract new customers.
The press release provided by Marc Jacobs described the AW18 looks as an ensemble of “huge flourishes, gestures, broad strokes and silhouettes expressed in rich and gorgeous fabrics”. And, to some extent, this was true. The overall show appeared to the majority of the viewers as a (perhaps excessively) enhanced version of the ‘80s loudness that characterized the work of Claude Montana, for example.
It was certainly a memorable show and a stand-out collection but, considering the wider-than-wide silhouettes and the carnivalesque color palettes, will it actually sell?
Ultimately Marc Jacobs has remained true to its innovative and maverick style, thus reminding everyone that its ultimate goal is to be a trendsetter and not to sell mainstream garments.
Only time will tell if the brand’s firm position and loyalty to its identity’s values is going to pay off or not.